29 Jan 05 - Miscellaneous Stuff


Today's going to be one of those important days on the project where there's a lot more talking than metal bending - we're headed up to see Mark Spry to ask a few questions about various issues we've been having, and Scott Millhouse is coming over later to see finish kit parts and talk about where we both are. Scott and I are roughly at the same point, so one of is perpetually asking the other one about something. In any case, let's see how we do:


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Polished Aluminum spinner from GeoBeck, Inc. This just showed up in the mail yesterday. Be awhile before we use it, though.
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Picture illustrating how the problems we're having with F-680. The holes (which were match drilled) are not in the right place, as you can see.
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With the block on top like this, you can't tell that there's a problem - i.e., the block is in the right place, it's just the holes that aren't in the right place.

We're going to take the pictures of the F-680 to Mark Spry (RV-4) later this afternoon - Mark's one of the EAA Tech Counselors that is involved with the TVRVBG. I think in a worst case senario, we'll have to mount the bearing on the other side of the tunnel cover, which would mean getting a new block, a new tunnel cover (we already put the cut in this one for the bearing block on the left side), and having to redo the powdercoat on the flap actuator arm. Ick. Maybe we won't have to do that, though, let's see what Mark says.

Answers from Mark: first of all, no, putting the bearing block on the other side isn't necessary, especially if it's already in the right place as far as the block (as opposed to the holes) is concerned. What we may have to do is radius the washer and/or nut, so it's not putting any stress on the side of the skin to which the bolt/nut/washer is too close. It will still be okay structurally, and you won't be able to tell unless you take it apart. Also, we were able to discuss some control stick issues we were having - as long as it's not tightened down completely, everything works fine. As soon as it's torqued to as much as it's supposed to be, the controls get really stiff. Why? Well, Mark didn't have a specific answer, but he did have some ideas about how to troubleshoot it - let's torque the bolts one at a time, make sure grease is in all of them, check how many washers are in each one, etc. If we can get this narrowed down to a problem with a specific bolt as opposed to a problem with the control sticks, we'll be in a better position, I think.




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